How to measure your chest for an overcoat without a tailor

A well-fitting overcoat should sit comfortably over a shirt, knitwear or light jacket without pulling across the chest. Measuring yourself at home is straightforward, provided you use the right reference point and keep the tape level.

The key distinction is between your body measurement and the coat’s finished chest measurement. Your body measurement helps you select a size, while the garment measurement shows how much room the overcoat provides for layering and movement.

Measurement How to take it What it tells you
Body chest Around the fullest part of your chest Your base size
Shoulder width From shoulder point to shoulder point Whether the coat will sit naturally
Sleeve length Shoulder seam to wrist Whether cuffs will show correctly
Coat chest Across the garment underarm points, doubled Actual wearing room

Why the chest measurement matters

An overcoat is cut with additional ease because it is designed to cover other clothing. A chest measurement that fits a close-fitting shirt may feel restrictive once you add a merino jumper or tailored jacket underneath.

The chest also influences the coat’s overall balance. If the garment is too small, the lapels may gape, buttons can strain and the back may crease horizontally. If it is too large, the shoulders can slump and the front may look boxy, even when the sleeve length seems correct.

What you need before measuring

Use a flexible fabric tape measure, a full-length mirror and a thin shirt. Avoid measuring over a bulky hoodie or winter layer, as this can add several centimetres and produce an unnecessarily large result. If possible, ask someone to hold the tape while you stand naturally.

Wear the type of clothing you expect to layer beneath the coat. For a Melbourne winter, that may mean a shirt and medium-weight knit. For milder Sydney conditions, a shirt with a light overshirt may be enough. This approach gives a more useful fit target than measuring in a T-shirt alone.

Taking your chest measurement

Stand upright with your feet relaxed and your arms hanging naturally. Do not puff out your chest or pull your shoulders back. Breathe normally, then place the tape around the fullest part of your chest, usually across the nipples and beneath the shoulder blades.

Keep the tape parallel to the floor all the way around your torso. It should touch your clothing without digging into it, with enough room to slide one finger underneath. Take the measurement twice and record the larger consistent result. If you measure 104 centimetres, use 104 cm as your body chest measurement rather than rounding down.

Allowing room for layers

The right amount of ease depends on the coat’s cut and how you dress. A slim overcoat may need around 10–14 cm of additional room over your chest measurement, while a relaxed or generously tailored style may offer 16–22 cm. These are useful starting points rather than fixed rules.

For example, a 100 cm chest could work with an overcoat measuring 112–118 cm around the garment. A structured coat intended to cover a blazer needs more room than an unstructured car coat worn over a shirt. Check the product description for terms such as slim, regular, relaxed or oversized before choosing between two sizes.

Reading garment measurements online

When a retailer provides a pit-to-pit measurement, double it to estimate the coat’s chest circumference. A flat measurement of 58 cm indicates approximately 116 cm around the chest. Compare this with a coat you already own and like, rather than relying on a generic small, medium or large label.

Lay your existing overcoat flat, button it fully and measure straight across from one underarm seam to the other. Do not pull the fabric tight. Compare its chest, shoulder, sleeve and back lengths with the online specifications. This method is especially helpful because sizing varies between Japanese, European and North American labels sold in the Australian market.

Checking the fit in real life

After trying the coat on, button every closure and move your arms forward as if reaching for a train handrail or carrying a work bag. You should be able to cross your arms briefly without severe restriction. The front should lie flat, and the collar should rest close to your neck without forcing your head forward.

Consider how the coat will function during an Australian commute. A longer wool overcoat can be useful in Melbourne’s cooler, windy streets, while a lighter cotton or technical outer layer may suit Brisbane or Sydney. If you regularly walk between stations and offices, prioritise shoulder mobility and a chest that accommodates your everyday bag.

Avoiding common measuring errors

Do not measure at the armpits alone if your chest is fullest lower down, and do not hold your breath to create a smaller figure. Measuring with the tape sloping upward at the back is another frequent error. A mirror or a second person makes it much easier to keep the tape horizontal.

Also check the retailer’s return policy before ordering. Under Australian Consumer Law, a retailer generally does not have to accept a return simply because you selected the wrong size, although many online stores offer voluntary change-of-mind returns under their own terms. Items that are faulty, significantly different from their description or unfit for purpose are covered by consumer guarantees.

Making the final choice

If your measurement falls between sizes, compare the garment dimensions and decide how you will layer. Choose the larger size when the shoulders and chest are close, since a tailor can often refine the body more easily than a tight chest can be expanded. For a quieter wardrobe, a well-proportioned navy, charcoal or camel coat can work across workwear and weekend clothing; ideas for adding colour thoughtfully can help keep neutral outerwear from looking repetitive.

Before placing an order, write down your body chest measurement, the chest measurement of a favourite coat and your preferred layer underneath. Use those three figures alongside the brand’s size guide. Browse 7 Store’s curated overcoats, knitwear and accessories with those measurements ready, so your choice is based on fit, fabric and intended use rather than the label alone.